Dashing through the snow on a one horse open sleigh

“Hallo!” our Austrian hosts greeted us, followed by a kiss on each cheek.  This warm friendly greeting was soon followed by a most welcome glass of Schnapps. We were glad of a little warmth, having just braved a snowy blizzard on our journey from Linz Airport.  Our destination was a guest house just outside Schönau im Mühlkreis, a picturesque village in upper Austria, close to the Czech borders.  This was the beginning of a wonderful five days in Austria, not for the normal skiing holiday, but to ride horses in the snow and to experience the stuff of Christmas Carols – horse drawn sleighs speeding though paths bordered by snow covered trees.

me riding Viktoria

 After a hearty lunch of fresh bread and sausages in goulash sauce, it was time to take our first ride. Wrapped up warmly, we mounted our horses and set off for our ride through the snow.  The horses made light work of foot deep snow. My fear of sliding all around the ice on a large beast, which could slip and plunge me to the ground before landing on top of me, dissipated in no time.   Before long, we were cantering gleefully through the snow at a fast pace, and being pelted in the face by snowballs kicked up by the horse in front.  On the way back, we stopped outside one of the archetypal Austrian houses, which were scattered across the hillside.  An Austrian gentleman emerged with a tray of schnapps for us all to taste, whilst still sat on horseback.  We responded with grateful cries of “Dankeshun” before preparing to be set off again only to be told, it was obligatory to have a glass of Schnapps “for each leg” and we found our glasses promptly refilled once again.

 Another highlight of the trip was our trip on the sleigh pulled by a pair of beautiful white Lipizzaner horses.  We snuggled up in the numerous blankets provided and sat back to enjoy the snow covered scenery whilst the horses worked hard pulling our sleigh.  A more romantic scene, it is difficult to imagine, than sitting on a horse drawn sleigh listening to the tinkle of the bells as the snow falls silently around us.  It was only a pity I was surrounded by a group of riding pals rather than the man of my dreams.

 Without doubt though the most spectacular ride was when 20 of us, locals and tourists alike, set off in fancy dress to ride to Haid for the Snow Games.  On arriving, we sat down to another typically Austrian meal of meat and dumplings washed down with beer.  Then off we went to watch the games, a number of light hearted races where either two riders raced at speed towards the crowd before veering off sharply to avoid the snow drift.  This was followed by races between two “one horse open sleighs”.  Our only disappointment was that we weren’t racing ourselves but next year …

me riding peperyl

Postscript:  I originally wrote this article for a travel writing competition and wanted to keep it short and concise and appropriate but with my bloggers, I will share the stories of riding out in the morning stopping for three hours lunchs with schnapps drinking competitions and copious amounts of gluhwein before staggering back to our horses as it was getting dark and cantering up snow covered country roads with no lights hoping we didn't meet too many cars.  Hip flasks full of schnapps were also a must to sip on throughout the ride and to my surprise I found riding slightly under the influence seemed to improve my riding  acheiving what my instructor repeatedly told me to do and I struggled to do consciously - relax!  Although I made another discovery sitting trot on a full bladder on the way home from the pub is most uncomfortable.

Amazingly the horses didn't slip once even cantering downhill in the snow.  Admittedly they had specialised shoes with studs but was very impressed with them.  It beat a skiing holiday day hands down every time.